The love-hate relationship with Iraqi tourists

By Qassim Khidhir

When Hardi Omer, a 25-year-old Kurdish man, landed at Beirut International Airport, he was very happy
 and excited - it was his first time in Lebanon as a tourist. He quickly was disillusioned when he saw that airport staff dealt with Iraqis in a different manner than other nationalities.

"I noticed [westerners] breezed through all the procedures and were given a lot of respect," said Omer. "But we - Iraqis - stayed for about an hour; one officer at the airport asked us to fill out a form stating who we were, where we were going, for what purpose, where were we staying in Lebanon, what our phone number was, and more questions. On the plane going to Beirut, I forgot that I am Iraqi because I was very excited, but the airport procedures reminded me that I am Iraqi, and Iraqis are not welcome," he told The Kurdish Globe.

Many travel and tourist companies have been opened in the Iraqi Kurdistan Region for a couple of years. They organize group tourism to Turkey, Lebanon, Malaysia, Egypt, and Morocco, as well as health tours for patients who cannot be treated inside Iraq - the health tours usually are to Jordan and Iran.

Hoshyar Ahmed, manager of Kurd Tours Company for travel and tourism, told the Globe that there are three reasons other countries do not like Iraqi tourists.

First, when Saddam Hussein was in power, a large number of Iraqis left the country for Europe and neighboring countries; the Iraqi refugees became a burden on these countries, and moreover, the Iraqis failed to gain a good reputation since some Iraqis were involved in illegal activities such as drugs.

Second, when Saddam was toppled, everybody thought the situation in Iraqi would improve and flourish, but it was the opposite. Iraq became a shelter for insurgents, security was very bad, and again more than 2 million Iraqis took refuge in neighboring countries.

Third, the Iraqi government never defends its people when they are insulted or humiliated in other countries; in fact, the Iraqi government encourages neighboring countries to be harsh with Iraqis.

Ahmed said when Iraqi people complained that the Jordanian authority was harsh with Iraqis at the Amman Airport and before the Jordanian government responded to the complaints, the Iraqi embassy to Amman issued a statement saying, "We told the Jordanian authority to be strict with Iraqis at the airport and on the border."

Ahmed said he is very comfortable with Turkey. "Turkey doesn't make any problems for Iraqis," he noted.

Hardi Omer, who went to Lebanon as a tourist, said, "When people discovered I was Iraqi, they only asked about war, car bombs, and political conflicts in Iraq; they never ask or talk with you about other subjects."

Imad H. Rashed, executive manager of Shabaq Airline for travel and tourism in Erbil city, capital of Kurdistan Region, said many people in Kurdistan want to travel to other countries as tourists, stating, "Since the economic situation of Kurdistan improved, the demand to travel to other countries increased notably."

Shabaq is the first company to start group tourism in the Kurdistan region, and it is the first company to open a tourism route between Kurdistan and Lebanon.

"When I went to Lebanon to make deals with authorities and hotels so that I could bring group tourists to Lebanon, I faced many difficulties. I went to 20 hotels and no one trusted me, but after 20 hotels, one hotel accepted the deal, and I was very surprised," Rashed told the Globe.

"Now, after I took a large number of tourist groups to Lebanon, everybody trusts my company - even the Lebanese Minister of Tourism paid a visit to [the] Kurdistan Region," he said.

He has pointed out that very limited countries at present accept Iraqi tourists, and many countries think Iraq is not a normal country and don't want Iraqi tourists.

"I encourage all countries to accept Iraqi tourists, in particularly tourists from [the] Kurdistan region; I guarantee that tourists from that region will not make any problems," he noted.

In addition, he requested that all consulates in the Kurdistan region distribute visas so people can travel to other countries.

Omer, the tourist, said the neighboring countries and other Arab countries have a love-hate relationship with Iraqi tourists. "They love Iraqi tourists because they have money, and they hate them because they are Iraqis."

Kurds and Kurdistan in 2009

On January 1^st Turkey launched the first state-run Kurdish language TV station (TRT6). Turkey has been under pressure to expand cultural and political rights of its estimated 15 million Kurds; the European Union welcomed the channel, but warned that the channel should not be a mouthpiece of state propaganda. Meanwhile, Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) did not welcome the channel, PKK said opening a Kurdish TV will not solve Kurdish problem in Turkey.

On January 20^th Iraqi army tried to create a belt around Kirkuk city and kick out Kurdish security forces; the move created a tension between Iraqi army and Kurdistan region security forces, in the result more Kurdish forces deployed to Kirkuk and prevented Iraqi army to make any move.

In February Kurds won the second place in Nineveh and Diyala provincial elections."Nineveh Brotherhood List (Kurdish list) has won 25.5% of the votes in Nineveh province and Kurdistan Alliance list has won 17.2% of the votes in Diyala province," stated IHEC in Baghdad.

In another word, means Kurds won the provincial elections in the disputed areas; Kurdistan Region President, Massoud Barzani has immediately called Baghdad to respect the will of people and implement the article 140 of Iraqi constitution.

In February Baghdad decided not to recognize travel documents issued by Kurdistan Region. Iraqi Ministry of Interior warned foreigners who enter Iraq through Kurdistan region without a valid visa issued by the authorities in Baghdad will be detained and face legal charges.

On March 29^th the Pro-Kurdish Democratic Society Party (DTP) in Turkey won the municipality elections in mainly Kurdish populated region of Turkey. DTP defeated the ruling AKP Party, it won the municipalities of eight cities in the region, including Diyarbakir with a population of 1.5 million.

On April 5, Palestinian President, Mahmud Abbas, visited Kurdistan Region with the aim of cementing ties between the two largest stateless peoples in the Middle East.

Kurdistan Region President, Massoud Barzani praised Abbas for being the first "president" to visit the autonomous region in northern Iraq.

"Just as he is the first president to visit the region we expect and we hope that the Palestinian consulate will be the first consulate to open in Erbil," Barzani said.

In May Iraqi Kurds were deeply disturbed by new round of Iranian bombardment. For over a week, Iranian artillery and helicopter gunships have constantly bombed the mountainous areas of Kurdistan Region's border with Iran. As a result, hundreds of families have been displaced, although no causalities have been confirmed thus far.

Iraq summoned Iran's ambassador to condemn Iranian shelling of villages in the Kurdistan Region, the Iraqi government warned of «negative consequences» if attacks continued.

On May 29, Kurdistan region started exporting crude oil to foreign markets for the first time in history.

Baghdad government allowed its pipeline to be used, in a deal that could begin resolving internal disputes over Iraq's substantial oil wealth and thehe revenue tobe shared between Baghdad, the Kurds and oil companies.

In June, "Chemical Ali" finally confessed to Halabja gas attack. He confessed that the former Iraqi regime attacked Halabja with chemical weapons on March 16^th 1988. But somewhat oddly he added that this was done with the “participation” of Iran, Iraq’s deadly foe at the time.

On June 24, Kurdistan parliament agreed, with the majority of votes, on the region's long-awaited Constitution, which includes disputed areas, including Kirkuk, as part of the region.

Out of Parliament's 111 members, 97 attended the session and 96 voted in favor of passing the Constitution, which comprises 122 articles and regards disputed areas including Kirkuk as "historical and geographical part of Kurdistan Region."

Meanwhile, a number of Arab MPs in Iraqi parliament stood against Kurdistan constitution, they said the constitution is absolutely contrary to the Iraqi Constitution since it gives more power to the region and controls the lands beyond the region's "border.»

On July 16, Hewler (Erbil) repeated as football league champion. Hewler beat Najaf in the final match of the Iraqi Football League by penalty kicks in a game that took on 30 additional minutes and ended 0-0.

For the five penalty kicks, the two clubs took the field for the tie game. Hewler goalkeeper Ahmed Ali blocked shots, but with a single shot, Hewler's Yaser Ra'ad scored and goalkeeper Ali's dramatic blocks helped Erbil retain the trophy.

On July 25, Kurdistan region held parliamentary and presidential election. Twenty four political groups, including five alliances, participated in the elections, competing for 111 seats (11 reserved for ethnic and religious minorities). More than 2.5 million people have registered to vote and there was a huge turnout, about 79%.

The Kurdistani List, which is consisted of the two main Kurdish parties, Kurdistan Democratic Party (KDP), headed by Massoud Barzani and Patriot Union Kurdistan (PUK) headed by Jalal Talabani, won the election with 57% of the vote. The Change List (opposition) won 23% and the Service and Reform List (Islamic opposition) won 12% of the vote.

Moreover, the incumbent president, Massoud Barzani, was comfortably re-elected as regional president.

On August 20, Barzani sworn in and new Parliament speaker announced. The re-elected President of Kurdistan Region calls for fulfilling the promises that were given to the people during the election campaign.

On September 1^st, Kurds in Turkey organized a huge rally for peace.More than 100,000 Kurdish people rallied in Diyarbakir, the largest city in Turkey's mainly Kurdish southeast, urging the Turkish government to grant them greater rights and reach a peace deal with Kurdish rebels of the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

The demonstration was organized by the Democratic Society Party (DTP), a pro-Kurdish party in Turkey, under the slogan "Yes to an Honorable Peace."

On October 28, Kurdistan parliament approved Kurdistan region government sixth cabinet which consists of 19 ministries. The parliament approved Barham Saleh as as the Prime Minister and The Parliament also, with majority of votes, approved Azad Barwari as Deputy Prime Minister and allowed immunity to the Cabinet's ministers. The vote came in the absence of a group of Parliament members who left the session objecting to the voting system.

On December 11, Turkish top court banned the pro-Kurdish Democratic Society Party (DTP). Turkey's chief prosecutor Abdurrahman Yalcinkaya argued that the Democratic Society Party (DTP) took orders from the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK).

The DTP was the latest in a series of pro-Kurdish parties to have been closed down in Turkey.

The EU, which Turkey hopes to join, expressed concern over court's decision ruling.

In addition, Kurds in Turkey, Iraqi Kurdistan and Europe organized huge demonstrations and condemned the Turkish court decision.

Talking with Kurdish best calligrapher artist

Kurdish best calligrapher artist wishes an institution or school to be opened to teach the art of calligraphy.

Najat Anwar Qadir, 52, the well-known Kurdish calligrapher, from Erbil city, capital of Iraqi Kurdistan region, told Kurdish Globe that when he was a child, there were no calligraphers in Erbil city.

"If someone needed calligrapher, he should go Mosul or Baghdad to bring a calligrapher," said Qadir.

When Qadir was a kid, he was very good in drawing pictures, but one day one of his teachers in school told him that his skill in handwriting is better than drawing pictures.

After that he started to focus on handwriting and the art of calligraphy.

"When I was child, every day I was working to improve my handwriting and the art of calligraphy by writing on copybook and the walls in my neighborhood," he said.

In 60s and 70s the skill of handwriting was part of school curriculum, it was a subject.

The word calligraphy literally means beautiful writing. Before the invention of the printing press some 500 years ago, it was the way books were made.

In the Middle East and Arab countries, the art of calligraphy was very vital, since it was the only way to make books and writing the Holy Quran; until when Napoleon Bonaparte invaded Egypt and brought a printing machine.

Qadir said throughout the history, there was very skillful Kurdish calligrapher, such as Muhammad Tahir Kurdi; he went to Mecca, Saudi Arabia, as pilgrimage for sixth times and at last he decided not to come back and became the personal calligrapher of Saudi's King.

Now Qadir mainly focuses on mosques, he likes to ornament mosques; he alone ornamented the biggest mosque in Kurdistan region, Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil, he also ornamented the Big Mosque in Suleimaniya city as well as a big mosque in Istanbul, Turkey.

Despite his age, he still can decorate huge mosques all alone by himself.

"When I went to ornament the Suleimaniya city Big Mosque, people inside the mosque told me where my staffs are; uncle you cannot decorate the whole mosque by yourself, you are old."

And he just told them be patient.

"In 20 days I ornamented the whole mosque, and they were very surprised."

The calligraphy art is very important for attracting tourism, he noted.

"Every year, millions of tourists all around the world, visit Turkey to see the mosques which are amazingly ornamented by calligraphers."

"In Kurdistan we have very good calligraphers, and we can ornament all Kurdistan archeological sites in order to attract tourists, but we need government support," he added.

Qadir has trained a lot of people about calligraphy art, and many of his students have become good calligraphers.

One of them is Sabah Maghdid, who wrote a Holy Quran by hand for the Amir of Qatar.

Maghdid is now in UK and works as calligrapher.

Calligraphers are not happy with new technology; they say computer has almost destroyed their works, now many works of calligraphy is made by computer.

However they say the work by hand is far better than computer works.

"A handmade calligraphy work is like a handmade carpet, it is very valuable, and a computer calligraphy work is like a carpet made by factory; besides, computer cannot do the mosques and palaces works," he said.

In Kurdistan, for everything there is a syndicate or association, except for calligraphers. Many times they tried to establish a syndicate or association, but government has not supported them.

"I don't understand, everybody likes us, except the government," said Qadir who wished an institution or school to be opened in Kurdistan to teach the art of calligraphy.

He concluded by saying an old proverb, "for kings calligraphy art is beauty, for rich people it is perfection and for poor people it is money."